Dublin
I have been assured, on many occasions, that there is a certain magic in the air that hits you as soon as you set foot on the Land of the Leprecaun and the Shamrock. The Leprecauns and the four leaf Shamrock are hard to find, but the magic can be found in that Jewel of the Emerald Isle called Dublin.
Dublin began its days, in antiquity, as a small settlement known as Elbana as far back as 140 A.D. Conor MacNessa, a Northern King who was returning from a raid ( what else),built a ford of branches and hurdles across the River Liffey thus giving a new name – Baile Atha Claith - the town of the hurdle ford. The Vikings, raiding in their turn,built a fortress on the junction of the Poddle and the Liffey on a site known as “Dubh Linn” or dark pool hence where its modern name came.
It is a City full of character, culture and fun especially for those who don’t mind going to bed, at night, exhausted but happy. I am a firm believer that a leisurely start is the best way to enjoy a city holiday – suss out the place – so that energy is not wasted by duplication or doubling back on one’s tracks, so to speak. One thing Dublin does not lack are parks and Pheonix Park is the biggest. Only a few minutes from the city’s centre and it offers sport, both for viewing or indulgence, if you’re that way inclined. Gaelic games for the masocistic, polo, cricket, cycling and jogging goes on all over. For the more sensible ( like me ) there’s rambling, picnics or a visit to the oldest zoo, reputedly, in the world . Why not all three? If flowers are your scene or just enjoy lovely blooms, then you you will be well rewarded by a visit to St. Stephen’s Green and Merion square; which has a bonus in it’s Georgian houses. But let me assure you that the ‘piece de resistance’ is the world famous Rhododendron gardens at Howarth Castle and its equally famous rival at St. Anne’s Park, with it’s magnificent rose gardens. You are spoilt for choice.
Let’s indulge the ladies while we are still fresh, and visit to St. Stephen’s Green shopping centre! It houses everything from designer shops to department stores. Sorry! From there a wander down Grafton street, which is considered to be the hub of the city, where Irish fabrics are at ther best in designer clothes and sports wear. The mind boggles at the selection and the prices. If you are into antiques then ther are a couple of lovely little streets; South Ann street and Duke street that specialise.
How are your feet? Patience! If you are a glutton for punishment and your poor feet are willing then a visit to Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is worthwhile. It is a uniquely restored 18th Cent. house with its central courtyard containinfg many shops but more; it also has regular exhibitions and musical entertainment and, thanks be to God, some restaurants and pubs where those things at the end of your legs can be revitalised.
At the end of Grafton Street is the beautiful statue of that famous lady, Molly Malone; although she may not have been described as such in her day. Immortalised in song; it is rumoured,( horrors) that she wasn’t even Irish.
Trinity College is nearby to rescue and your pocket. It is the home of the exquisite Book of Kells ( it is a must, tell the wife, and so it is ) housed in the Collonnades Exhibition Gallery. The Book was presented to Trinity College in the mid- 17th Cent. to save it from Cromwell’s army, and has become one of the most inspiring of all Irish art treasures. From College Green, I wonder why this colour keeps coming up, you can walk northwards to visit O’Connell Street; forever part of Irish history. It is said to be the widest street in Europe. Famed for it’s statues of James Joyce and Charles Stewart Parnell, who is backed by a high column with an inscription and a lovely Irish Harp. There are statues of Daniel O’Connell ( No, not O’ Donnell), after whom the street is named, big Jim Larkin and not forgetting Anna Livia one of Dublin’s most prominebt creations of whom, it is said, that the Dubliners’ love to hate. She is known with affection,( a contradiction? ) as ” The Floozie in the Jacuzzi ” or the ” Bride in the Tide “. I’ll leave you to work that one out. To the west of O’Connell street is Moore street, very popular for its open market.
An important part of all holidays, certainly mine, is when its time to revive our drooping spirits. And Dublin, to be sure, won’t let you down. Pubs and entertainment are a way of life and a part of which you will come to love. Not for drinking sake alone; it certainly is not. It is for those who are looking an easy-going relaxed atmosphere in a sophisticated society without the formal connotations the word might mean to some. The music is, in the main, traditional and the singing is to be joined in. An the prices are not all that bad considering the choice and quality offered.
The Area around Temple’s Bar is an ideal area for ’ alternative shopping ‘. It’s cobbled streets were laid out over two-hundred years ago. Remember when we were pleased to be rid of them? It is an place of fun and entertainment. Cinemas theatres, night-clubs and, of course, its pubs abound. It has more ethnic restaurants squeesed into its narrow streets than any other part of the city, and most are small, informal and friendly serving food that would not disgrace their countries of origin.
But It’s in Irish pubs where you will find the heart of Dublin. Pubs like Oliver Street’s John Groarty, who was a surgeon of noted kindness, and involved in Irish history. Look out for the swans in the nearby river Liffey when you stagger out. Boss Crockers Inn for fine food and a choice of wines from at least 12 different countries. And, if after that, if you are stiil able, then reel into Crocker night-club for some real ‘reeling’. O.K? But all Irish pubs have something to commend them so go and ‘bust a gut’, you are on holiday. Visit as many as you can.
A guide to pubs and entertainment and all places of interest are readily available from the Dublin Tourist Office and very comprhensive the are too. It demonstrates just how keen they are to welcome you to the Fair City. Conducted tours are easily bookable, if you like things organised for you,. Crime is relatively low compared with outher cities in the E.U. abd always remember to be careful and follow the basic rules. Enjoy a wonderful City Holiday.
About the Author
Harp Player at Sean Kelley’s Irish Pub New Orleans-Luke Brechtelsbauer
